🥃 Review #32: James E. Pepper Decanter Barrel Proof

 

Named after Colonel James E. Pepper (1850-1906), noted horseman and master distiller, this lovely decanter styled bottle hails from a whiskey pedigree older than the American Revolution. Col. Pepper, third in his line to use the family recipe, convinced the state of Kentucky to change its laws to permit distillers to bottle their own whiskey, a right previously allocated to rectifiers (third party blenders/flavor makers) who had a history of adding adulterants or cutting whiskey to make an extra buck. Colonel Pepper began the tradition of affixed a signed seal to the bottle to denote its quality, a provision that became a hallmark of the Bottled-in-Bond Act of 1897 for which he was a chief advocate. The Pepper family continued to operate the historic James E. Pepper Distillery in Lexington as well as the Woodford Reserve Distillery until 1967 when a slow whiskey market forced them to shutter the historic Lexington location and the family brand. In 2008, Amir Peay revived the historic brand in partnership with Lawrenceburg Distillery in Indiana (MGP) and Bardstown Bourbon Company, relying on sourced whiskey until the historical James E. Pepper Distillery could be fully restored in 2017. Distillate from all three locations can be found in Pepper brand whiskies to this day, with older juice being sourced from the established partners. 

📚Background: Bearing the artful decanter styling of a vintage 1945 bottle, this James E. Pepper barrel proof bourbon was reintroduced in 2023. Fred Minnick, of Whiskey Advocate and other publication fame, called it, "One of the Best Bourbons of 2023".  Though the reopened distillery only produces around 2000 barrels a year, this bottle is home to only James E. Pepper distillate.

🛒Sourced: $52.99 Costco - Atlanta, GA 750ml - Commonly seen around $65. It had the no-reorder * on it, and we only got two cases. I stopped in for my usual delivery day check and immediately grabbed a bottle. That being said, it is not overly hard to find nationally albeit at higher prices.

🧪Proof: 105.4 Proof, 52.7% Alcohol by Volume

🎨Color: R6 - Deep and dark caramel, some legs for sure 

🥔Mash Bill: This is a special edition blend of older stocks and distinct mash bills. Pepper actually uses three main component bills in constructing their blends:

• Raw Rye - 45% Rye Raw, 4% Rye Malt, and 51% Corn
• Rye Malt - 49% Rye Malt, 51% Corn
• Barley Malt - 49% Barley, 51% Corn

Per the graphic below, you can see that these three distinct recipes will be aged and then blended to allow for fine tuning of flavors. They do hint that some older stocks may be kicked into each batch though everything is this bottle comes from the historic distillery which would limit that max age to seven years old at the time of writing. This is a blending-first approach to whiskey making which I personally love as it gives the producer a great ability to control for quality and showcase their skill through unique releases.

 All of the corn is sourced from a single local grower. Water used in mashing comes from the distillery well lying more than 200 feet below the work floor. 

Age is not stated on the label but the product page has it listed as having an average age whiskey over 5 years old. This is an interesting phrase as it tells us that there is likely whiskey that is younger than five years of age in the mix, otherwise they would just use the five year age statement. In any case, they do have to kick in older juice to even the average out, so all is fair.

Barrel chars may range between #1-4. Juice is bottled straight from the barrel with no additional water or filtration. Barrel Entry proof does not exceed 110. This bottle is from batch fifty (50).

👃Nose: Brown Sugar, Plum, a hint of spearmint, Stained Oak. Basically no alcohol. 

😜Palate: Thick on the tongue, can tell it hasn't been watered down for sure. Burst of Oak that mellows into more plum and black currant. Nose rings true though I was surprised at how aggressive the oak is at first. The mid palate is where the flavors open more. 

💦Finish: Very Long, a flash of acid in transition from the fruit, some baking spice or nutmeg that continues to build to a final peak heat. It is somewhat uncommon in that the warmth really does continue to build to a final peak at the end of the finish. I would have called it smooth without this crescendo, but I actually quite like it. The rye definitely gets its just desserts.  

🏆 Overall:  8/10 - Excellent - I've done a few impromptu tasting sessions since cracking open this bottle and it really holds its own quite well. Between the fruit, the wood, and the hefty feel on the palate, I'm a huge fan. Single Barrels always scare me a bit as sometimes I buy a bottle and get a very different than expected experience. Well planned blends like this one will always reliable, and I'm happy to add it to my rotation.  

💵Would buy again? Yes, fairly unusual and with a fun bottle! If I see it under $60, I'm grabbing another even before this one is finished. 

⚖️Rating Scale: 

1 | Disgusting | So bad I poured it out 
2 | Poor | I wouldn’t consume it by choice. 
3 | Bad | Multiple flaws | Struggle to get through the bottle
4 | Serviceable | Mixing or ice recommended.
5 | Good | Drinkable Neat | An agreeable dram indeed.
6 | Very Good | Any flaws offset by interesting flavors | A cut above.
7 | Great | You find yourself reaching for this one often | Well above average.
8 | Excellent | Serve to Impress Guests | Really quite exceptional.
9 | Incredible | An all time favorite | You guard this bottle jealously.
10 | Perfect | You didn't think anything could be this good | A clear champion.